Saturday, 27 June 2020

Lokhandwala public spaces



Lokhandwala playground and google map of area.
The brown part is the main playground

Play ground today morning 


First my apologies for missing Friday evening weekly deadline. Work takes precedence over everything else these days. So here we are on a fine Saturday morning with a hint of rain coming in any time to solve the humidity problem.

As some of you know I live in not so famous part of Lokhandwala complex in Kandivali East in Mumbai. While the Andheri one hogs the lime light for it eclectic inhabitants from art world our version has a mix of bankers, IT folks and large community of business folks (mostly from Rajasthan). Compared to other version ours is a staid upper middle-class version with a very strong traditional conservative ethos all around (Lokhand as we fondly call the complex does not have single Bar). Having lived here for last 20 years I can say this is a village with some characteristics of modern township. 

As is usually the case in suburban Mumbai, our township is also surrounded by slums and all main arterial roads to highway are through them. Each of these slums have a personality of their own emanating from concentration of ethnicity, districts, professions and tenure of stay in Mumbai. Best thing about Lokhand is that we abut the National park and this helps the area to be cooler than other part of Mumbai suburbs (some claim a difference of up to 1 degree).

I chose to write today about our complex as I wanted to share couple of treasure, we have access to as denizen of this place. Yes, most of the Mumbai suburban folks would get it right, we have large open public spaces not encroached by anyone but maintained as a garden or play ground by our often-abused BMC. The best thing about these places is that it is used equally by people living in apartment as well as in the slums. And till today no one has got into fight for access or monopolizing it. May be the abundance is the reason for it: 1 large playground, 1 large park, 4-5 small parks.

On a busy day one can see multiple Sachin clones smashing the tennis balls to boundary, some of these young players are very conscious of their copying and some so busy with joy of hitting the ball that a knicker sliding down post shot has no attention. Serious teams wearing Blue India color (never a green one here) of varying design strategize to keep the other team down and loss the game. On a weekend a tournament can make life interesting for all with live commentary over a loud speaker. Yoga clubs, talking soirees of ladies from slums & apartments, young couples walking with some display of PDA (yes quite tolerated here) and some serious marathoners pushing their way in crowd, All in all free entertainment of very good quality is always available in the playground. One can sit on a bench and observe the celebration of life.

How did Lokhand get it right with these spaces while other areas failed? Multiple reason can be attributed to the success

1.      BMC policies: By the time Lokhand was handed over to the municipality by the builder the policy regarding public spaces had taken an abrupt turn for better. The municipality abandoned the policy of inviting proposals from clubs and other institutions to maintain the open space and went back to old ways where they themselves took care of development and maintenance of the space. This ensured that every one got access to public place with no club etc.. moderating or controlling it.

2.      Local councilor, MLA and MP: We have been lucky to have very proactive elected representatives who have taken interest in developing these spaces and ensuring that budgets to maintain them are available. While they compete with each other (multiple inauguration boards exist in these places) to claim credit the alignment exists to get work done   

3.      People: Surprisingly the adherence to the rules is near cent percent with few creating problems of some severity. Adhering to norms the space becomes safe for people and this intern makes more people come to these places. Barring contracted BMC agents and a night time enforcer of sorts the place is largely left to its own. BMC staff ensures regular open and closure time which are accepted by people without much fuss.

4.      Area and activities: clear identification of activities that can be done in the marked area help keeping a sense of control, and any breaking of rules is easily countered by people as whole. The Mix of people keep trouble makers wary of doing anything stupid.

Added to all these points is a hidden hand of some genius (may be not one, but a team or a series of people) who went and planted native trees in all these places. These trees, plants are in sync with the place and shower them with beauty which is worth observing in summer months. The developer of Lokhand (the name sake builder firm) planted Gulmohur (not an India native)  along side the road, and these tree start flowering at start of summer creating a ring of fire effect by their red flowers all around the play area contours.

So if you live in Lokhand please be assured of safe open spaces. I am one of those lucky people of Mumbai who does not face another building in front of window but a huge play ground which has possibilities to becoming better with each passing year. Yes dust is problem with all kids playing 16 hours at times, but then one does not get everything in Mumbai.

Here are some photographs for your persual.


















Friday, 19 June 2020

Himalayan sojourn

The ongoing issues (not underplaying) at our border with China reminded me of idyllic time spent in the other China India border area (Uttarakhand) in summer of 2010. We I.E, my family made a very unconventional choice for those days to trek in high Himalayas camping across various place over a period of 15 days. Mind you our daughter was only 9 years old then. Consensus amongst us was to avoid crowds, calls (I was running IT for Kotak securities and was mostly in office or on call managing it) and cities. With some effort we identified a self-help group Mountain Shepherds (http://mountainshepherds.com/) run by an enterprising gentle man by name of Sunil and reached out to them for helping make itinerary and arrangements around it. The group leader was a skeptic about our ability to endure this one but said yes. Later in a conversation he shared that, we were amongst the 1st Indian family with a kid in tow to make a call to them. Till that time the usual profile of their clientele was white, couple and single Indian. We left Mumbai with only confirmation that Sunil is sending a person to pick us up at Haridwar railway station. Beyond this the itinerary was sketchy and all was based on trust of person whom we had never met but spoke on phone. Remember all this was before trip guarantee by websites and social media reviews.

Our pickup was ready at Haridwar and in due course we were climbing up beyond Rishikesh. The vista beyond Rishikesh changes dramatically and one starts to understand why the place is called Dev Bhumi. God could live only in these mountains. Awe is cliché when one sees these mountain ranges in their majesty and scale. The weather changes dramatically every few Km up into the mountains and so does scenery.  One is spoilt for choices to feast the eyes. To an Indian well versed with the history (Ok some call it as myth) it’s a sheer delight to see places & rivers connected to our heritage. So many stories come to fore in mind as you travel with rivers & temples one has heard of while growing up. One also thinks of Shankaracharya who reached Badrinath 600 years ago through this route. One gets an understanding of scale he executed his vision at.

We made a base at a guest house in a village, on road to Auli (famous ski resort) from Joshimath (municipal board in Chamolli distt.). Near the guesthouse I got interrogated by an Army JCO who could not believe that an Indian family would come for a break into these places. He said cynically Duniya badal rahi hai (the world is changing). Well the interrogation ended well after I was fed a very sugary  tea by army folks and sermonized by JCO saheb to maintain safety.

While the places we went to have become known now, they continue to have charm of world where people follow the rhythm of nature and not the trends on twitter. Here are some  photos  we took at that time. We made 3 trips across the district of Chamoli and came back spell bound with almost untouched beauty of area around Nanda Devi biosphere.  The area abuts Tibet (yes part of China now) and was active trade & caravan route in past. While medieval India and British India continued with the trade with Tibet from the area, nothing substantial exist now. 

We could not go to few places as permits were not available, and at Gamshali I was interrogated again by army major who I believed was bored with loneliness and wanted to chat up. I spent some time explaining, what I was doing in the area with my family (yes he was wandering if I was mad)  and then spent an hour solving his investment issues.  One should always understand financial jargon to succeed in remote part is my learning from this episode. 

I keep in touch with Sunil now and then, the group has grown big and has made niche in high value tourism. They are very conscious of the fragility of their home state and ensure through their deft execution that it remains so. GO if you want to see where God Lives, go if you want to see beauty in pristine state. Don't go with a horde and don't go to drink. 



Vista on way to Niti
On way to Lata 
 
 

On Left vista on way to Niti Village on Right  some where between Lata village and Joshi Math 
Gamshali Village
Lone resident of Gamshali as villager come back only in June from winter homes


Glacier above Gamshali 
Patience gives you the frame

Nature busy Chisling the stone
On way to Niti
Glacier here
Glacier here also





Friday, 12 June 2020

Unlockdown : Trend 1

 

Since the lockdown took over our life the only thing left in control is what one eats. So, indulgence has been central to middle class existence for some time now. Naturally this calls for frequent forays to the neighborhood shop. one arrives at a shop which is trying to have its employees and customers practice social distancing in a 2 X 4 Square feet shop. By the time you get the attention of the attendant all one wants is to shout the order over din, complete the transaction and make a run out of the shop. So. you shout Maggi, and lo behold a jumbo pack comes into your hand. As if one got boon from creator, his best junk food creation in hand, one makes a dash for home. Ha Ha what does the pesky CNBC guy know about Nestle’s problem of not being able to meet the demand for Maggi. Here I have a jumbo pack safely tucked into shopping bag, so conditioned are people with the Maggi colors and packet size, that no one reads the package and one only realize the con at time of eating. This Maggi taste more like Girgaon Chowpatty chaat (possibly the worst possible version in Mumbai), as one investigates to find that Noodles are not Maggi but Some brand WAI WAI. The packing, color, size, prices are a match for Maggi, but is not the real thing.

I fondly call this a WAI WAI phenomenon

It feels, costs and is mostly the same thing but not the real thing. Post-Covid this is happening more and the trend is accelerating.

A more contextual definition of this phenomenon is:

“Ability to deceive with confidence and at same time behave/ belief/practice/profess that you are doing the right thing.” In plain speak, in the Pre-Covid world this would attract section 420 of the IPC while now it attracts legion of believers and profits as the case may be.

 Here are few examples of phenomenon being exhibited brazenly.

1.      Banning foreign goods

Anything with an anglicized name may be classified as foreign manufactured and hordes of whatsapp uncles are out seeking your cooperation to boycott these goods. Who cares if an Anglican sounding name is a brand only in India and nowhere else? And is manufactured in some dingy factory in Kurar village (shanty town near my place in Mumbai famous as manufacturing hub for imitation jewelry and textiles).

One could make Ganesh idol in Schengen and not have an issue, but make something with foreign name in India and you may have hoards descending on you

2.      China Border situation

Most complicated is our border with China. Chinese have made it a habit every few years to claim something or other & then we wake up to push them (hopefully) back. This time it has gone beyond claims and counter claims, we ourselves are not able to decide if they have occupied the territory or not. Depending on the side one is on political spectrum the answer is yes or a no. Either side of opinion is busy with poetry about other side negatives and teaching lessons to each other through media. Looks like teaching lesson to China is not on agenda of either side

3.      Defunding

Completely new word for me, DEFUND, till now we were so used to Getting funded now prepare for defund. Will the person getting defunded write a cheque and get defunded? Well that’s for some other time. The issue here is how this is being projected as the solution for admittedly a very serious problem, one needs to see some videos to understand the convoluted thinking folks professing this have. Feels more like the 13-year-old students in the red march and complete revolution in various part of Asia in 60’s.

4.      Criticism

 Smart version is also coming to fore in our society, YES in India (Communist parties always had this smart version). We now have the praise and criticism of an organization restricted to people in it. Needless to say, this is all modulated and staged for furthering the organization. Any opposition from outside is branded a lunacy, mentally unsound, revisionist history writer/thinker and anti-national depending upon the organization in question. The left hand criticizes and the right hand apologizes & promises to make good. The charade continues……

 Hopefully society will find tools to counter this phenomenon.

  Few good things also are happening

1.      Mr NK Singh an eminent journalist and my close friend’s Neelabh’s father, has started digitizing his article published since 1960’s. Few things I learnt till now 1. .Bihar had a vibrant independent English and Hindi press 2. How congress started unraveling in Bihar. Please do follow this on Facebook to get a sense of history before 2002.

Please see more of it on http://nksingh.in/


2.      Dr P N Mishra, director of IMS, Indore when I was doing MBA in 1993-1995. He has had a big influence on me and consider him as one of my Gurus. He gave a very good talk on Mahabharat and team building.

Please follow the talk on

https://www.facebook.com/watch/live/?v=706992673450348&ref=watch_permalink

 


Friday, 5 June 2020

कोटा व इंस्ट्रूमेंटेशन लिमिटेड-II : खुशिया सभी और

ब्लॉग का यह अंक टाउनशिप  के क्वार्टर नंबर २१  के सभी रहवासियों को समर्पित, यहाँ हम सब का बचपन बिता और आजीवन काल के लिए रिश्ते बने. यह एक बहुत ही विशेष जगह हम सभी के लिए 
सत्तर का दशक की शुरुवात बंगलादेश के जन्म से हुई और इमरजेंसी से होती हुई जनता गवर्मेन्ट पर खत्म हुई. नए नेता और नए मायने सामने आ रहे थे, आदर्शवाद अब सफारी सूट को जगह दे रहा था.  जाहिर सी बात है कोटा भी अनछुआ नहीं रहा. राजनैतिक ध्वंद में   कोटा ने जनसँग और बाद में भाजपा की और अपना रुख  मोड़ा. अब यह मत पूछिए की इन लोगो ने IL  के लिए क्या किया. १९८४, १९९८, २००९ के अलावा सभी इलेक्शन में जन संघ और फिर भाजपा का बोलबाला रहा, यह लोग तभी हारे जब लहर ही कांग्रेस की  थी. फिर कभी जब टाइम होगा तब हम सोचेंगे के इन सभी सांसदों  और पार्टयों ने IL के लिए क्या किया. क्या यह लोग बचा सकते थे IL को या और भी बहुत कुछ थे उन दिनों के कैलकुलेशन ? इस पर किसी इतिहास कार को शोध करना होगा तब शायद सच्चाई सामने आएगी I 
७० का दशक  IL के लिए  स्वर्ग सा प्रतीत होता है , न चिंता न दुःख, ये दशक IL के अविरल अनप्रस्तिस्पर्धित विकास की कहानी है. मार्किट में जितने भी थर्मल पॉवर स्टेशन, रिफाइनरी आये सभी के सभी IL के झोले में पड़े. कोई और था ही नहीं. IL  के अलावा कोटा में ज्यादा कुछ नहीं हो रहा था, या ऐसा भी कहे की हिन्दुस्तान  में कुछ नया नहीं हो रहा था. 
टाउनशिप  के सामजिक जीवन में क्लब, पिक्चर हॉल, सामुदायिक केंद्र और बास्केबॉल कोर्ट का दबदबा बढ़ता जा रहा था. तमाम पिक्चर देखने  के अलावा  बैडमिंटन और बास्केटबॉल  में रहवासियों  का इंटरेस्ट बड़  रहा था. एक के बाद एक आदमी जुड़ता जा रहा था. काफी सीरियस होता था मुकाबला और काफी रोचक भी. उच्च स्तर की प्रतिस्पर्धा का आवरण होने लगा था , ऐसा कोटा के अन्य उद्योग और समाजिक समूहों  में भी हो रहा था. (आप को जान कर ताजुब होगा की कोटा में ताँगे वालो की ब्रिज की टीम थी). हमारे  स्कूल की बास्केटबॉल टीम की झुझारू प्रत्सिपरधा रहती थी भीमगंज मंडी और मल्टी परपज  स्कूल की टीमों से. साल दर साल सभी छात्र इस मुकाबले का इन्जार करते थे. ये  बात अलग है की हम अक्सर ......... . किसी को विश्वास नहीं होगा पर बास्केटबॉल और बैडमिंटन कोटा में क्रिकेट से ज्यादा चलते थे. क्रिकेट उस समय में सिर्फ कुछ लोगो तक सीमित था , पर उन लोगो में इसको लेके  जूनून बराबर का था. ट्रांजिस्टर पर कमेंटरी और उसपर टीपणीया पान की दुकान पर सुने जा सकते थे. स्कोर पूछने और पान खाने के बीच में गुफ्तुगू क्रिकेट की होती थी. क्या गावस्कर अपने लिए खेल रहा है, क्या प्रसन्ना कुछ जादू कर  पाएगा और क्या चेतन चौहान ९९ रन के स्कोर से आगे बढ़ेगा. 
इस दौरान कोटा को दूसरा कानपूर भी कहा जाने लगा १. क्योकि कोटा कानपुर के बाद एक ओधोगिक शहर के रूप में आगे बाद रहा था और २. कानपूर की ही तरह चाकू बाज़ी भी जड़ ज़माने लगी थी.  काफी शान बड़ रही थी शहर की, पर सबसे ज्यादा बढ़  था कोटा  वासियो का खेल से प्रेम खासकर बास्केटबॉल और  बैडमिंटन के प्रति. 
1968 से ७३ तक IL क्लब में टेबल टेनिस की राज्य स्तर की चैंपियनशिप आयोजित की जाती थी, उसके बाद जिला  स्तर की प्रतियोगिताएं होने लगी. इसके बाद  कमान स्पोर्ट्स कौंसिल के हाथ  में आयी. वर्ष दर वर्ष खेलो का उन्माद  बढ़ता गया. IL  कोटा यूनिट ने  ६ बार वेस्टर्न्स जोन पब्लिक अंडरटेकिंग बैडमिंटन  चैंपियनशिप भी जीती. और फिर १९८० में  जे के लोन बैडमिंटन कोर्ट पर नार्थ जोन बैडमिंटन चैंपियनशिप का आयोजन  किया गया. देश के अवल दर्जे के खिलाडी कोटा आये जिसमे अमी घीया , सैयद मोदी. विक्रम सिंह शामिल थे. इन सबने  जबरदस्त खेल का प्रदर्शन किया और कोटा वासियों ने इस बात पर इतनी चवनिया (२५ पैसे) कोर्ट में फेकी  की एक परत जम गयी. कुछ लोगो की मेहनत से जिसमे स्वर्गीय बिर्गेडिएर निरुला (उस समय के चेयरमैन और खेल के शौक़ीन). स्वर्गीय रामभवन, स्वर्गीय खलील और मेरे पिताजी शामिल थे, से  ये सभी प्लेयर्स IL में भी खेलने आये और एक शानदार प्रदर्शन से  सबको  खुश करके गए. इन सभी लोगो को इस प्रदर्शन के लिए  १ हजार रुपया प्रति प्लेयर दिया  गया. इन सभी खिलाडियों में विशेष उल्लेख, सैयद मोदीजी का. १९८०  के बाद  सैयद ने  ५-६ साल तक नेशनल चैंपियन जीती (प्रकाश पादुकोणे के साथ मुकलबला रहता था और बाद में और भी लोग आये) और एक चूक से लंदन में आल इंग्लैंड चैंपियनशिप का फाइनल हार  गए.  यह वही सैयद मोदी जिनका लखनऊ में सनसीखेज हत्या कांड हुआ था.
 इस प्रदर्शन  मुकाबले  के बाद   IL की जनता को चस्का लगा बड़ी प्रतिस्पर्धाओ को करने  का. १९८० में शुरू  हुई  ब्रिगेडियर बी जे साहनी बास्केट बॉल (पहल राज्य स्तर  पर फिर राष्ट्रीय स्तर पर) और बहुत सारी बैडमिंटन की भारत सरकार उपक्रमों के लिए प्रतियोगीतये . ये दौर १९८० तक चला,  बहुत कहानियां है इनमे और ८० के दशक में.  अगले संकरण में विस्तार के साथ.
आप सभी का साभार, पर यहॉ पर श्री सोगानी जी का विशेष तौर पर नाम लेना चाहूंगा , उन्होने बहुत सारी जानकारी दी इस ब्लॉग को आगे बढ़ाने के लिए.
धन्यवाद